SPRINKLER MASTER REPAIR, Troubleshooting valves
Valves operate simply. A diaphragm closes the valve or opens to let the water go through. The solenoid opens it electronically or manually. Many valves have a flow control and a bleeder.
If the zone is not coming on automatically, it is usually a solenoid or timer problem. See 'troubleshooting electrical solenoids' and/or 'troubleshooting electrical timers.'
VALVE STAYS ON
If the valve stays on or won't turn off it is usually a valve problem. This may be in the form of the water running full force or just water slowly leaking from one or more heads. Identify which valve is running. You can usually feel the vibration of the water running through it. Manually open the valve you think it is. If you have the right one, no other zone will come on. There are a few different remedies.
1. If your valve has a bleeder screw on the top, turn it counter-clockwise to open the valve. Let it run for about a minute. This screw is intended to raise the diaphragm and allow debris to pass through. Close the bleeder screw and listen for the valve to close. If it does, that's all it takes. Sometimes the same is accomplished by turning the water main on and off a few times to flush out the valve.
2. Turn off your water at the main and take the top off the valve. Most tops are secured with screws or bolts. If the screws have been there a long time, be careful not to strip the top of the screws. Use the right size screwdriver. Some green, black, and grey valves have a jar type ring that unscrews. Make sure to notice the position of the top and diaphragm as the port hole on the solenoid must be clear and line up when you put it back. The solenoid is usually on the far side of the valve from where the water comes in, but some older valves have it on the side or center of the valve. Be careful not to lose the spring inside and remove the diaphragm. It may be a simple repair as it is dirty or debris is keeping it from closing. Clean the diaphragm and inspect it for tears. If it is torn you will need a new diaphragm. Look inside the valve for pebbles and remove any. Put the diaphragm and spring back and put the top back on. Tighten the screws in an alternating pattern to close it evenly. Turn on the water. If the valve closes and the water stops you have fixed it. If it continues to run then you need a new diaphragm, the valve is damaged, or the portal to the solenoid may be plugged.
3. Try a new diaphragm following the previous procedure. If the water stops you are done. If it continues to run you need to check the solenoid portal or replace the valve.
4. Inspect the portal or small holes that line up under the solenoid and the valve body. If either are plugged, clear them with a small gauge wire, and flush.
5. If none of these resolves the issue, there is a problem with the body and you need to replace the valve. That requires removing the whole valve and replacing it. This is usually more complicated because you may have to cut out all the valves in the box if they were glued too close to cut one out. The valve box will have to be dug out and all the pipes have to be cleared back enough to reconfigure it. If you are lucky, it was installed with a manifold that allows easy removal of the bad valve. See 'replacing valves.'
VALVE BOX FULL OF WATER
Your valve box is full of water. This could have many causes. You need to find out where it is coming from. Take a wet vac and suck out the water, or use a hand pump. You can bail it out with a cup but it may not be as effective. When you can see where the water is coming from you can make the appropriate repair. It may be coming from a valve (see leaky valve) or a broken sprinkler pipe fitting (see pipe repairs). If you can not see any leak but the box continues to fill with water, the water may be coming in from ground water and you must determine what the source of the ground water is. If the ground is saturated, it will continue to fill the box as well. There could be a broken pipe near the box. Look for a mushy spot around the box that might indicate a break. Sometimes there are no leaks, it is just a low spot where all the water settles and Utah clay soil does not let the water penetrate. One customer had a box in a low spot, there were three valves that all had drains, and the rain gutter down spout was right there. It never dried out. You can bail out the water, turn off that zone for a few days, and see if it dries out. Sometimes it can also be from over watering.
LEAKY VALVE
There are two types of leaky valves.
REPLACING VALVES
Sprinkler Master Repair can help you with sprinkler repairs,new installations,or winterization blow-outs. If you want to do-it-yourself or need reliable,expert, professional service, we can repair heads,valves,pipes,timers or solenoids in Utah County.
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If the zone is not coming on automatically, it is usually a solenoid or timer problem. See 'troubleshooting electrical solenoids' and/or 'troubleshooting electrical timers.'
VALVE STAYS ON
If the valve stays on or won't turn off it is usually a valve problem. This may be in the form of the water running full force or just water slowly leaking from one or more heads. Identify which valve is running. You can usually feel the vibration of the water running through it. Manually open the valve you think it is. If you have the right one, no other zone will come on. There are a few different remedies.
1. If your valve has a bleeder screw on the top, turn it counter-clockwise to open the valve. Let it run for about a minute. This screw is intended to raise the diaphragm and allow debris to pass through. Close the bleeder screw and listen for the valve to close. If it does, that's all it takes. Sometimes the same is accomplished by turning the water main on and off a few times to flush out the valve.
2. Turn off your water at the main and take the top off the valve. Most tops are secured with screws or bolts. If the screws have been there a long time, be careful not to strip the top of the screws. Use the right size screwdriver. Some green, black, and grey valves have a jar type ring that unscrews. Make sure to notice the position of the top and diaphragm as the port hole on the solenoid must be clear and line up when you put it back. The solenoid is usually on the far side of the valve from where the water comes in, but some older valves have it on the side or center of the valve. Be careful not to lose the spring inside and remove the diaphragm. It may be a simple repair as it is dirty or debris is keeping it from closing. Clean the diaphragm and inspect it for tears. If it is torn you will need a new diaphragm. Look inside the valve for pebbles and remove any. Put the diaphragm and spring back and put the top back on. Tighten the screws in an alternating pattern to close it evenly. Turn on the water. If the valve closes and the water stops you have fixed it. If it continues to run then you need a new diaphragm, the valve is damaged, or the portal to the solenoid may be plugged.
3. Try a new diaphragm following the previous procedure. If the water stops you are done. If it continues to run you need to check the solenoid portal or replace the valve.
4. Inspect the portal or small holes that line up under the solenoid and the valve body. If either are plugged, clear them with a small gauge wire, and flush.
5. If none of these resolves the issue, there is a problem with the body and you need to replace the valve. That requires removing the whole valve and replacing it. This is usually more complicated because you may have to cut out all the valves in the box if they were glued too close to cut one out. The valve box will have to be dug out and all the pipes have to be cleared back enough to reconfigure it. If you are lucky, it was installed with a manifold that allows easy removal of the bad valve. See 'replacing valves.'
VALVE BOX FULL OF WATER
Your valve box is full of water. This could have many causes. You need to find out where it is coming from. Take a wet vac and suck out the water, or use a hand pump. You can bail it out with a cup but it may not be as effective. When you can see where the water is coming from you can make the appropriate repair. It may be coming from a valve (see leaky valve) or a broken sprinkler pipe fitting (see pipe repairs). If you can not see any leak but the box continues to fill with water, the water may be coming in from ground water and you must determine what the source of the ground water is. If the ground is saturated, it will continue to fill the box as well. There could be a broken pipe near the box. Look for a mushy spot around the box that might indicate a break. Sometimes there are no leaks, it is just a low spot where all the water settles and Utah clay soil does not let the water penetrate. One customer had a box in a low spot, there were three valves that all had drains, and the rain gutter down spout was right there. It never dried out. You can bail out the water, turn off that zone for a few days, and see if it dries out. Sometimes it can also be from over watering.
LEAKY VALVE
There are two types of leaky valves.
- Water spraying from the top seal. Sometimes this can be repaired simply by tightening the screws or bolts on the top. One brand, known as the silver bullet, a grey valve with four bolts(11mm), one in each corner, is well known for requiring tightening. If tightening doesn't stop the leaks, then the diaphragm no longer provides a seal and you need to replace it. See 'valve stays on' for description of replacing diaphragms. Also look for small leaks from the valve body. You may not be able to see a crack, but under pressure the water will spray out.
- Water spraying from any part of the valve body. This is a ruptured or cracked valve. These are very common in the spring. Water was trapped inside the valve and froze. It also seems to happen at other times without freezing. The valve needs to be replaced. See 'replacing valves.'
REPLACING VALVES
Sprinkler Master Repair can help you with sprinkler repairs,new installations,or winterization blow-outs. If you want to do-it-yourself or need reliable,expert, professional service, we can repair heads,valves,pipes,timers or solenoids in Utah County.
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